The Runway on Day One of Lakme Fashion Week Winter/ Festive 2012 featured debutant as well as established designers, with many a veteran model showcasing their designs.
But sadly, fashion took a backseat at an otherwise spirited event that boasted of all the mainstays a from the usual front- row faces and celeb presence to glamorous showstoppers. To begin with, designers Jatin Varma and Vizyona's collections veered towards the gothic.
Varma's a Dark Angels collection consisted of a series of gowns and short dresses that had elements such as power shoulders, feathers, chains, brass and sequin embroidery and felt appliquÃ© work. The plunging backs, extended shoulders and body con silhouettes in deep shades might have been high on drama but lacked the extraordinary element.
Vizyon's Enlightened Shadows was inspired by poems on the dark and the enchanting. Motifs and embellishments included butterfly wings, spider webs and beetle shells on dresses with cut- out details, layered origami and ruffles. The last few dresses might have been the saving grace for an otherwise average collection.
Veteran designer Ritu Beria's collection had a surfeit of ruffles, frills and flounces. Her collection Icons of Luxury was inspired by vintage fifties glamour as she tried to recreate the era with a twist. However, the voluminous gowns, heavy lace and flower embellishment, crochet bonnets, trailing sleeves, peplum jackets, faux fur shrugs and ballerina dresses looked better suited for the runway than the red carpet.
Secondly, the denim rompers, lehenga s teamed with bikinis, floor- length lace coats, jumpsuits and lace- layered floor- sweeping ensembles seemed rather outdated and out of place. In her collection of festive wear, Pallavi Jaikishan showcased saris, anarkali s and lehenga s. Her trademark flower motif, floral designs and authentic zari embroidery complemented the pastel colour palette.
Designers Anushka Khanna, Felix Bendish and Isabelle Mittal presented their collec- tions at the Usha talent Box show. Inspired by mosaic work, Khanna's collection, Floral Fragments, was a blend of renaissance art and Victorian romanticism.
Accessory designer Felix Bendish created quite a stir with his Swarovski crystal, feather and sequin pieces, while Isabelle Mittal's label Izi had a The Midas Touch, and showcased an Indian collection inspired by Greek draping styles. Attending Khanna's show, actress Kareena Kapoor and film- maker Karan Johar pro- vided the glamour quotient for the day.